Zion Narrows Winter Hiking
- Dara
- Feb 3
- 22 min read
Updated: 2 days ago
Imagine wading through a narrow river gorge, the water gently pushing at your knees, slowly creeping up toward your waist. You're nearly engulfed by towering sandstone cliffs, rising high enough to block the rays of the midday sun. You meticulously move your submerged feet from rock to rock, feeling the contours of the riverbed below. You follow the bend in the gorge, emerge around a sharp turn, and there's suddenly not another soul in sight. Your only company is the soft, rhythmic beating of the Virgin River's current and the lone tree growing out of the red cliff face at a seemingly impossible angle, 50 feet above your head. Welcome to the Zion Narrows.
The Narrows is one of my favorite hikes. This world-renowned slot canyon walk is a very popular "trail" at Zion National Park. I put trail in quotes because as you'll see shortly, most of the time you'll be walking right through the river. Not much dry land on this adventure!
I've solo-hiked the Narrows twice, both times during December. I love the winter experience for several reasons, which we'll go into below. I had the fortune of having very different weather conditions on each hike as well. My first hike was during a cold spell, so the canyon was covered in ice and snow. It was a chilly winter wonderland, icicles and frozen waterfalls at every turn. My second time hiking was a fair bit warmer, so the scenery was fully exposed, in all its beautifully barren wonder. I'll feature photos from both trips, so you can get the full spectrum of what you may come across if you come to Zion in the winter!
I'll review everything you need to know about hiking this incredible trail in the wintertime. The Zion Narrows is wonderful any time of year, but I really do think winter is the most exciting time to experience it, especially if you want to have a piece of this place all to yourself. The temperatures may be low, but so are the crowd sizes, and for such a famous and popular hike, that's a huge plus.
Table of Contents
Where is the Zion Narrows?
Zion National Park is located in Southern Utah, a stone's throw from the town of Springdale.
Entering the park via Zion Park Boulevard in Springdale leads you into the Zion Canyon area of the park, which is the most visited and home to the most popular trails, including the Narrows and Angel's Landing.
Much of Zion Canyon is very wide, and the river you'll hike in runs through the entire canyon. The Narrows are found at the back of Zion Canyon, where the gap between the cliffs narrows significantly (hence the name!). The trailhead is found at the Temple of Sinawava, about 7 1/2 miles (12 km) from the park's visitor center. During the most visited times of the year, private vehicles are not permitted in Zion Canyon, and visitors must use the park provided shuttle services. When the shuttles are not running, you can drive in and park at the trailheads. The shuttle schedules do change depending on the time of year, so be sure to check the official park shuttle page to see what the transportation rules will be for your visit.
Shuttle routes: (L) Southern part of Zion Canyon and (R) Northern part, home to the Narrows
If you're taking the shuttle to the Temple of Sinawava, expect the ride from the visitor center to take about 45 minutes. In a private car it would be closer to 20 - 25 minutes.
Hike Overview
The Zion Narrows can actually be done two different ways - Top Down or Bottom Up. The vast majority of visitors do the permit-free Bottom Up route, which starts and ends at Sinawava as described above - it's an out and back trail. That's how I hiked both times, but I'll briefly mention the other option, just so you're aware of it in case you're interested! I'd love to experience the Top Down route one day in the future, although it usually is not possible to do during the winter.
Top Down is the more advanced and longer option that does require a permit. It's a through hike, starting at Chamberlain's Ranch and terminating at the Temple of Sinawava. It's roughly 16 miles (26 km) one way, and the National Park Service estimates 10 - 14 hours to finish. With an additional overnight backpacking permit, you can split it up into two days.
Now back to our route, Bottom Up! The Temple of Sinawava trailhead is where you'll exit the shuttle or park your vehicle. There are restrooms and picnic tables here to get ready. It's a good idea to use the restroom before you start, as there are no facilities in the Narrows.
As mentioned above, the Narrows Bottom Up is an out and back hike. There is a required turn around point, Big Springs, past which only permit holders are allowed, and if you head all the way to Big Springs you're looking at a bit over 9 miles (14.5 km) round trip - a little over 4 1/2 miles in, and then retracing your steps back out. That said, the beauty of out and back hikes is that you don't need to go all the way to the end. You can make your Narrows hike as short as you'd like. A short putter into the canyon can be as brief as an hour round trip, while the full trip up and back from Big Springs can take up to 8 hours. The beauty of the Narrows is that there's no true destination here. There are a few landmarks to look out for, which I'll describe a bit later on, but this is very much one of those hikes that is completely about the journey. You're hiking to enjoy the magic of the canyon, to be in awe of the towering cliffs and to experience the thrill of walking through a river - not to be rewarded with the end point. I've never made it all the way to Big Springs and don't think my experience was at all shortchanged because of that.
The first mile (1.6 km) of the hike is along Riverside Walk, which is an easy access paved pathway shared with many visitors who are not planning on getting into the water. This will likely be the most crowded section, as many people come to the Temple of Sinawava just to do the Riverside Walk. At the end of the paved pathway is the Gateway to the Narrows. Here you can make your final preparations, bid farewell to your dry-land only fellow hikers, and get on into the Virgin River! Now the fun part starts!
The remainder of the hike will be mostly in the river itself. There are a few sections where you can go up on dry land, but mostly you'll be in the water, walking on slippery rocks. The water level varies depending on the section of the canyon, the recent rainfall, and the time of year. Up until the Floating Rock, which is a common turn around point about 3 miles (4.8 km) in, the water level is anywhere from ankle to waist deep. If you go all the way to Big Springs, it may get deeper and you may have to swim.
The Big Springs direction is going against the current, so it will take you longer to walk in than out - keep that in mind while planning out your day. The canyon is nearly all one way in and one way out, so getting lost won't be an issue. This makes it a very easy hike to do solo. You don't have to worry about plotting your course, just follow the river! There is one side canyon you can explore, Orderville Canyon, which is a gorge much narrower that the main one, found about 2 1/2 miles (4 km) from the Temple of Sinawava on the right hand side when you're heading in. I've explored it a bit on both trips and really enjoy it. Orderville is also one way in and one way out with a required turn around point - past that you need a permit.
Why Hike in the Winter?
Both of my trips to Zion have been in December, so I've only ever hiked the Narrows in the winter. That said, I don't really have much of an interest in day hiking it any other time of the year. I love the winter. I'll go into why, but first, since this is a very pro-winter post, I'll start off with the downsides of winter hiking, just so you're aware of those as well.
The Downsides
Hypothermia
Colder temperatures bring increased hypothermia risks. You can expect average daytime air temperatures to hover in the 37°F - 42°F (2°C - 5°C) range for December through February, although temperatures can and do absolutely drop lower than that. Temperatures are often chillier in the deeper parts of the canyon, where the sun can't always reach. Water temperatures are typically between 40°F - 45°F (4°C - 7°C). Even if your body is dry, if you don't have enough warm clothing you can be at risk of hypothermia. Slippery rocks and ground can cause falls year round into the river. If your body gets wet, the cold water exposure will put you at an even higher risk of hypothermia.
Icy ground
On my first Zion Narrows hike, I took a horrible spill at the end. I was on Riverside Walk, already out of what you'd think was the dangerous part. I stepped on some black ice and went flying into the air like a cartoon character (seriously, I remember being up in the air for what felt like a full minute...), before going SPLAT on the ground, bruising my poor coccyx. I couldn't roll over in bed without searing pain for several weeks after that. Ice puts you at an increased risk of slips and falls, even on what would ordinarily be considered "safe" ground. Ice can be found on the rocks and exposed ground inside the Narrows canyon as well, where a bad fall could have even more serious consequences.
Falling Ice
Not only do you need to be aware of ice on the ground, the ice above your head can be out to get you as well. The icicles that form in Zion Canyon are HUGE! They grow to the size of cars, and when they come crashing down they can wreak a lot of havoc. Parts of the Riverside Walk were closed on my first visit, because so many giant icicles were coming crashing down from the cliffs above, directly onto the paved trail. Walking under them can be insanely dangerous. Park Rangers will close trails when the danger is too high, but you're never risk free when walking through a narrow canyon in freezing temperatures.
Extra Cost
Hiking the Narrows in the winter does require specialized gear. While shorts and a t-shirt will suffice during the summer, in the winter you'll have to rent a drysuit from one of the local outfitters. We'll touch more on gear in a bit.
Top Down
If you're interested in the top-down through-hike option, that is rarely open during the winter. Fall is the best season for this route.
The Upsides
Crowd Size
The Zion Narrows is one of the most popular hikes in one of the most popular national parks in the United States. If you want a chance of finding a piece of canyon all to yourself, then winter is your best bet. Most people are not going to want to walk in a river with water sometimes up to their waist when there's snow on the ground and the air temperatures are near freezing. But if you're like me, and are willing to give it a go, that means more peace and quiet and one on one time with the canyon for you! The solitude and low crowd size is the main reason I love hiking the Narrows in the winter.
Flash Flood Potential
Flash flooding is a risk in the Narrows all year round. It's best practice to check current weather and river conditions before you hike no matter what month it is. That said, December through February do bring the lowest potentials for flash floods, so less of a risk of your hike day being washed out.
Snowy Wonderland
Winter in Zion does not mean you're guaranteed snow and ice - as I mentioned above, I've hiked the Narrows in a snowy landscape and a clear one, both during the last week of December, a few years apart. That said, if you like the idea of the winter wonderland vibes, the Narrows is truly magical when surrounded by ice and snow. Hiking past a frozen waterfall? Yes please!
Adventure Factor
Hiking during the other times of the year is a lot easier. You can throw on a pair of good aqua hiking shoes and go for a walk in jeans and a t-shirt. I like the winter because it's more of a challenge, and having fewer people around makes me feel so much more connected to my surroundings. Plus, when else will you be hiking in a drysuit? That's kind of a unique experience unto itself! Speaking of, let's talk about what gear you'll need for hiking in the winter.
Gear Rental
Hiking the Narrows in the winter requires renting a full drysuit to keep your body protected from the freezing water. The drysuit is meant to provide a waterproof layer - it is not designed for insulation, so you'll still have to wear appropriate layers underneath for cold weather hiking. There are a few outfitters in Springdale who can provide you with drysuit rentals. For both of my Narrows hikes I went with Zion Adventures. They're located just a 15 minute walk or 2 minute drive from the park's front gate. Super convenient.
You can rent either a dry bib or a full Gore-Tex drysuit package. Dry bibs are essentially waterproof overalls that keep you dry from the armpits down, whereas the drysuit is full body protection. Your feet, however, will be wet regardless of which option you choose, but we'll touch more on that later. For winter, the full drysuit is the best option. If you fall down completely into the river, the drysuit will still keep you dry - the bib will not.
Each option comes with canyon shoes, neoprene socks and a sturdy hiking pole, along with a pre-hike orientation. They'll also provide you with the most up to date canyon conditions and answer any questions you have. You can pick up your gear the morning of your hike, or you can stop by the night before prior to closing if you want to get an early start. The gear is typically due back at the end of the hike day.
Safety
A few safety topics have already been mentioned, but I'll do a summary here of everything you should keep in mind while hiking the Zion Narrows during the winter (many of these can be applied to other seasons as well!).
Tripping and Falling
Ice can be difficult to spot, and most of the Narrows hike is directly in the river, where you're constantly trying to find your footing on slick, submerged rocks, while battling the river's current. You can't always clearly see the ground. Be very careful of your footing. Go slow and take methodical steps - don't rush! Your drysuit package comes with a sturdy wooden hiking pole. USE IT. Even if you're not someone who ordinarily uses hiking poles, you'll need it here. Think of it as your third leg for the day. I cannot tell you how many times that wooden stick saved me (and my camera) from falling into the river.
Hydration and Food
Thee's no potable water available after you depart the Temple of Sinawava. You may be out in the canyon for 8 hours. Bring plenty of drinking water and high-energy hiking snacks. Walking 9+ miles (14.5 km) in a river will drain much more energy than 9 miles on land. Bring more snacks than you think you need. Plus, you never know when you'll need to help a fellow hiker who wasn't as well prepared!
Flash Floods
If there is too high a risk of flash flooding, the Park Rangers will close the hike for the day. That said, always check current conditions before setting off. Flash floods in the winter are not as common as other times of the year, but they can still occur. Warning signs include a change in water color, more debris in the water, a faster water flow rate and rising water levels. If you observe any of these signs, immediately seek the highest ground you can find.
Water Flow Rate
The Virgin River does have a current, though the current is not constant. The flow rate of the river is measured in cubic feet per second, CFS. The higher the flow rate, the more intesne the current and the harder the hike will be. The hike will be closed if the CFS exceeds 150, and does not reopen until the rate has dropped below that mark for 24 hours. That said, if the CFS is on the higher end of the acceptable limit, you may want to reevaluate your plans. Zion Adventures or the park's visitor center can provide you with advice on what's best for your situation and level of fitness. If you want to check current flow rates online, you can do so here.
Hypothermia
We've touched on this already, but it's good to mention again as hypothermia can be deadly - it's one of the leading causes death amongst outdoor adventurers. People can get hypothermia even in the summer, so it's critical to be extra vigilant when heading outside for aquatic adventures in the winter. Common signs of hypothermia include intense uncontrolled shivering, confusion, stumbling, and fatigue.
Canyon Jumping
If you hike far enough toward Big Springs, you may enter sections of water that are over your head, and you'll have to swim through. This may be a tempting area to have some fun jumping off the rocks into the deeper water. Don't do it. You don't want to be that hiker that breaks their leg doing something silly 4 miles into the canyon.
Falling Icicles
Also worth mentioning again, be aware of your surroundings not only underneath and next to you, but above you as well. Park Rangers will close the Riverside Walk if there are too many dangerous icicles overhead, but that does not mean that the risk is zero in areas that are open. Be aware when you're near canyon walls.
Cyanobacteria
Toxic cyanobacteria, more commonly known as blue green algae, have been present in the waters of the Virgin River since 2020. These algae are a natural occurrence, but in large amounts they can cause health issues if ingested. Do not submerge your head or drink the water in the canyon. The filtration systems typically carried by backpackers don't filter out the toxins. The park and local health department are constantly monitoring the situation, and the park visitor center can always address any concerns you have prior to hiking.
Logistics Summary
A brief summary of the essential facts!
Hike Location: Temple of Sinawava - last stop on Zion Canyon Scenic Drive
Hike Type: Out and Back - 1 mile (1.6 km) on paved road, remainder in river with current
Hike Length: up to 9.5 miles (15.3 km)
Estimated Pace: Conservatively plan on roughly 1 mile per hour
Elevation Change: 334 feet (102 meters)
Time to Complete: 1 - 8 hours, return leg typically 30 - 60 minutes faster - average hiker spends about 5 1/2 - 6 hours from start to finish
Average Winter Air Temperature: 37°F - 42°F (2°C - 5°C)
Average Winter Water Temperature: 40°F - 45°F (4°C - 7°C)
Water Depth: Varies - ankle deep to overhead - first few miles usually up to waist deep Drinking Water Available: Only at trailhead - water in canyon not safe to drink, even with portable filtration systems
Restrooms Available: Only at trailhead
The Narrows Experience!
We've gone through the facts, the logistics, the warnings, and the stats. But what to expect out there? What's it like hiking the Zion Narrows?
As I mentioned several times, I've hiked the Narrows twice. The first time was in 2015, so although I've been featuring some photos from that experience, my detailed memory of it is a bit fuzzy nearly 10 years later. It's the more recent hike that is fresh in my mind, so that's what I'll be describing to you below!
After exiting the shuttle, I got as prepared as possible at the Temple of Sinawava. This is the easiest spot to organize yourself since this is where the facilities are. There is a bench at the end of the Riverside Walk, the Gateway to the Narrows, but not much else.
The Riverside Walk itself is about a mile long, a roughly 20 minute trail. Although this is the "easy" part of the full Narrows experience, and you may be eager to get into the river itself, don't forget to enjoy this part of the hike too! This section alone can hold its own, and I came back a couple of days after my hike to just focus on taking some photos here.
At the end of the Riverside Walk, it's time to get the main adventure started. I took my first steps into the water tenuously, just to get used to it. Your drysuit will keep you dry from the ankles up, but those neoprene socks and canyon shoes you rented? Those are designed to get wet! The neoprene material is what wetsuits are made of. The chilly water will seep in, and then your body heat warms the thin layer of water trapped between your feet and the neoprene. Your feet will be wet for the duration of the hike, but they won't get cold. Still, when you take those first steps into the river and that 40°F water starts seeping in, it's a bit of a shock!
Although I'd done the Narrows once before, it did take me a bit of time to get used to walking in the river again. The current coming at you can throw off your balance, and the rocks under your feet are all different shapes and sizes. The depth and the current of the area you're walking through can also vary depending on which side of the canyon you're on. The right side of the canyon may have ankle deep water while the left creeps up to your waist. One part the current may feel like it will knock you off your feet, while a few feet to your left or right and it's much gentler. There's no one "best" path to tackle the Narrows. Everyone discovers their own individual way, and you're constantly having to judge the best route to avoid depth, current, and the occasional small rapids! Use your walking stick. I not only treated it as a third leg, but often as a depth tester. If the current was strong or the depth too high for me to see the bottom, I would use the stick to check the depth of the next spot where I planned on putting my foot - it can be an unpleasant surprise when you accidentally drop down into an unexpected hole!
From the start, the scenery is breathtakingly gorgeous. The challenge of walking through the river is fun, but don't forget to look up every now and again! There's always something to feast your eyes on - some of the rock faces and plants you'll see along the way feel like they defy the laws of physics.
The Narrows does have a few landmarks to keep an eye out for, if you're so inclined. Maybe 15 - 20 minutes into the river portion you'll spot Mystery Falls, a waterfall about 110 feet (33.5 meters) high. As you continue past this point, the sandstone cliff walls become increasingly impressive in stature. About an hour into the river you'll spot House Rock, where the river narrows to just about 10 feet (3 meters) wide. As you continue on, there will be sections of land where you can take a break from walking through the river. I always took advantage - land sections were a welcome physical and mental break. You learn to appreciate the beautiful simplicity of walking on land! Roughly an hour past House Rock you'll come to the Orderville Canyon junction, and exploring this canyon branch is a fun side trip. You can go about a 1/4 mile (0.4 km) into Orderville Canyon before you reach the canyoneering permit only section and have to turn around to head back to the junction.
As you head farther into the Narrows canyon, the area past Orderville junction is the start of Wall Street. This is a great area to aim for before you turn around, if you can make it this far. The canyon gets very narrow here, and cliff faces in this section can reach a towering 1,500 feet (457 meters) high. They are sometimes angled in a way that makes them look as if they are touching each other! The crowds in the Narrows during the winter are thin to start with, but they thin out even more as you continue deeper into Wall Street. Being in a narrow, twisty gorge, perhaps only 25 feet (7.5 meters) wide, the intricately sculpted cliffs on either side of you stretching over a quarter mile in height, and it's just you. That's the magic of hiking the Zion Narrows in the winter.
I went as far as Floating Rock, a giant boulder that bisects the river. It's slightly past 3 miles (4.8 km) from the Temple of Sinawava, or 2 miles (3.2 km) past the Gateway to the Narrows, where you enter the river. This ended up being my turnaround point on both hikes, as on both occasions the water level was significantly higher and would have required a full swim. In 2015 I didn't have a full dry backpack so couldn't continue, and more recently I couldn't get my drysuit closed all the way up! (Side note here - I had foolishly declined trying on the drysuit in the shop when I rented, and then couldn't figure out how to seal it completely once I got to Sinawava. So even if this is not your first time in a drysuit, make sure you know what you're doing before you head out!! I felt like an idiot when I couldn't get it fully sealed.) The water levels up to Floating Rock had varied from ankle to waist deep, with most walking being in the ankle to knee depth (I'm 5' 5" tall (165 cm) for reference). Big Springs is a little under 2 miles past Floating Rock, so there is still plenty of the canyon left for me to see in the future! If you want to reach Big Springs, the estimated time from Sinawava is about 4 hours and 20 minutes.
The return trip back to the Riverside Walk is a different experience than the way in. When you're ready to turn around, you may feel like an old pro at walking into the current. However, walking with the current behind you is a very different feeling! Instead of fighting you backwards, it's now pushing your forwards. That means a faster pace, but do take your time at first to get used to the different sensation!
Additional Tips & Advice
Start as early as possible. If you want to make it to Big Springs, you'll need the full day. Even if the plan is to turn around a bit closer, the Narrows is a place you're going to want to spend as much time as possible in. On my second hike I got a bit of a late start, practically ran up the river and completely missed the Orderville Canyon junction (thankfully I found it on the way back). I was rushing and forgot the most important part of the Narrows - enjoying the journey! Starting early will also give you the best chance for solitude. If you start out first thing in the morning in the winter, you'll have a great chance at avoiding people. You'll have plenty of moments where you look around, and there's no one else there. The Narrows is also a photographer's dream. Starting early leaves plenty of time to take as many shots as your heart desires.
Enjoy your time in the canyon, but don't completely forget about the clock. If park shuttles are operational, you need to make sure you're on the last one out of Sinawava, or else you've got a LONG walk back out of Zion Canyon. After all day hiking in a river, you're not going to want to walk another 7 1/2 miles (12 km) out of the park. You've also got to be mindful of rental gear return times. If your gear is due at the end of the hike day, you need to make sure you're back at the shop in Springfield prior to the end of their business hours.
As mentioned, the only restroom is located at the Temple of Sinawava trailhead. You can urinate in the canyon if you have to, but there are very few private spots and getting out of a drysuit is a bit tricky. I'm not one to advocate for rationing water consumption while hiking, so I'll just say that while staying hydrated is critical anytime you're active outside, don't overdo the hydration here. As for solid waste, the policy is leave no trace. You don't leave anything behind in the canyon. If this is a concern for you, then you can bring solid waste bags - the outdoor shops in Springdale will sell them if you don't already have.
You'll be in a rented drysuit that's appropriately sized, but not custom fitted to you, and is used all the time in challenging conditions by people who are often not familiar with drysuits. So while it will do its job, it may not be 100% effective. Wear clothing underneath made of moisture-wicking fabrics, just in case some water manages to seep in during the course of the day. Avoid absorbent fabrics like cotton.
Layering is always important when you're out hiking for the day. However, once you're in your drysuit, taking off layers becomes a lot of work. You're going to be expending a lot of energy hiking into the current, which will warm your body up quite quickly once you're in the river. Keep this in mind while dressing for the day, and do remember that the drysuit is only there to keep you dry, not as a thermal layer. If you do under or over layer, there are a few land sections in the canyon where you can remove the top of the suit if needed to access your clothing underneath. You can also wear a layer over the drysuit, but the drysuits are bulky so the garment would have to large enough to fit. Plus, if you do fall, you run the risk of that outer layer potentially soaking through.
Keep in mind that temperatures in the heart of the Narrows can be colder than what you'd experience at the trailhead, as the cliff walls block out much of the sun. Whatever the forecasted temperature is for the day, assume you'll be exposed to quite a few degrees lower than that.
Dry bags are essential to ensure everything you own stays that way. Falls in the river happen. The rocks are slippery, the bottom of the river is uneven, and the depth can change unexpectedly. With the rush of the current, you can't always see the bottom clearly. One misstep and you can be down before you know it. If you don't want to ruin that camera or sandwich, have everything in a dry bag. These become even more essential if you plan on making it all the way to Big Springs, as the water after Floating Rock can be deep enough to require swimming.
Remember to completely scrap your expectations for your usual hiking pace. Past experience hiking on land is not at all indicative of how quickly you'll move in the Narrows.
Hiking the Zion Narrows is an incredible journey. It's such a unique adventure, and in my opinion, it's worth braving the chilly waters to have the opportunity for solitude in one of the world's most beautiful slot canyons.
Zion Narrows Winter Hiking - The Video
I have a video on the experience as well, if you want to see more of what the canyon has to offer. It's one of my earliest YouTube videos, so it's also one that's near and dear to my heart!
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